Riddle me this batman -
- Thread starter Duke Mk1a
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Will pull the piston tomorrow and see. As always, will post pictures.
TigerBlue
Gold forum user
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Hone
You do not need a machine shop to hone it. That is something you can do yourself. Rent a hone and I am sure you have a power drill.
If it does not clean it up easily? Decisions decisions.
Good luck!
Rick
PS regarding honing a cylinder: The surfaces of an engines used cylinders with normal break in are polished, very smooth. Before installing new rings this glaze is removed with a few passes of the hone up and down the cylinder. Always moving to create a cross hatch pattern. In this case the hone might remove high spots and discoloration revealing how severe the damage actually is. At any rate if the bore is OK it would be honed before installing new rings.
You do not need a machine shop to hone it. That is something you can do yourself. Rent a hone and I am sure you have a power drill.
If it does not clean it up easily? Decisions decisions.
Good luck!
Rick
PS regarding honing a cylinder: The surfaces of an engines used cylinders with normal break in are polished, very smooth. Before installing new rings this glaze is removed with a few passes of the hone up and down the cylinder. Always moving to create a cross hatch pattern. In this case the hone might remove high spots and discoloration revealing how severe the damage actually is. At any rate if the bore is OK it would be honed before installing new rings.
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WOUNDED #1 CYLINDER
You could go rent a hone and enlarge the hole, but you are trying to save a the cylinder! What are the maximum side clearances/tolerances your PROBE forged pistons pistons will tolerate? You probably don't have a bore gauge to tell you when you went too big. Since you'r going to the machine shop for resurfacing the flywheel, I would let the professional deal with the cylinder problem
You could go rent a hone and enlarge the hole, but you are trying to save a the cylinder! What are the maximum side clearances/tolerances your PROBE forged pistons pistons will tolerate? You probably don't have a bore gauge to tell you when you went too big. Since you'r going to the machine shop for resurfacing the flywheel, I would let the professional deal with the cylinder problem
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Bore scritches
We see many examples of bore digs in the engine shop. The muscle mill Guru blames too much clearance more often than not because it allows the new, sharp-edged rings to "rock" and dig in. His build interveiws always start with " OK, just what are you actually going do do with it?" . . . . . .
We see many examples of bore digs in the engine shop. The muscle mill Guru blames too much clearance more often than not because it allows the new, sharp-edged rings to "rock" and dig in. His build interveiws always start with " OK, just what are you actually going do do with it?" . . . . . .
Picture tells the story. I can only blame myself for a shanked #1 piston install. No other way for a ring to be broken like that.
My engine guy is ready to receive the shortblock. Will look at new rings and honing, if that wont work a sleeve. Should run around $500 for him to do all the work.
Moondoggie
Gold forum user
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The ring gap may have been to tight !!!! Take a good close look at that
ring groove in the piston....Price seems very reasonable from your engine guy so don't skimp on the parts........
Moondoggie
ring groove in the piston....Price seems very reasonable from your engine guy so don't skimp on the parts........
Moondoggie
WOUNDED CYLINDER
Don't be too hard on your self , a friend bought a 347 crate motor from DSS that had three broken RINGS.
I have only gernaded two engines big time in my lifetime and they were both valve train related. Recently I accessed Adam Carrola's website where Sandy (AKA; gts sparkplug.com) shows the Dart 331 aluminum block stroker which he will be installing in his Tiger after he broke a rod in his 350 Shelby. Your engine bill is cheap compared to a broken rod or valve.
Don't be too hard on your self , a friend bought a 347 crate motor from DSS that had three broken RINGS.
I have only gernaded two engines big time in my lifetime and they were both valve train related. Recently I accessed Adam Carrola's website where Sandy (AKA; gts sparkplug.com) shows the Dart 331 aluminum block stroker which he will be installing in his Tiger after he broke a rod in his 350 Shelby. Your engine bill is cheap compared to a broken rod or valve.
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FIXED!.......................that was easy. Open wallet, take out $650, close wallet.
To my defense, Curtis told me the cylinders were not chamfered at the top which made piston install very difficult. They are chamfered now.
Now the best part, reassembly of a perfect engine with new gaskets and clean parts.
To my defense, Curtis told me the cylinders were not chamfered at the top which made piston install very difficult. They are chamfered now.
Now the best part, reassembly of a perfect engine with new gaskets and clean parts.
Moondoggie
Gold forum user
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Duke.
Looking good...
Moondoggie
Looking good...
Moondoggie
Progress.
I had the rocker retainers machined down by 1/4" I noticed that when I took the valve covers off, there we four retainer head impressions made of oil on the roof of the VCs. I think a lot of noise was being transmitted through the oil to the VCs.
Had some play in the steering and figured the rack needed adjustment. Nope, the two 45 year old U joints has some play. Installed new U joints and they're greasable.
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Riddle me Batman
For what it is worth:
You posted that you milled 1/4 off the rocker arm hold down nuts for clearance for the originial valve covers. Ive got dents in my valve covers after installing high lift cam and roller rocker arms. I used two gaskets for additional clearence. With my cast aluminum TIGER valve covers (not installed) one option is that National Parts Depot reportably has a valve cover spacer good for for rocker arm clearence.
For what it is worth:
You posted that you milled 1/4 off the rocker arm hold down nuts for clearance for the originial valve covers. Ive got dents in my valve covers after installing high lift cam and roller rocker arms. I used two gaskets for additional clearence. With my cast aluminum TIGER valve covers (not installed) one option is that National Parts Depot reportably has a valve cover spacer good for for rocker arm clearence.
cobrakidz
Gold forum user
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- 2,289
I was going to add too that most Mustang shops/suppliers carry the VC spacer plate. They do make a thicker gasket but not sure if that will give you enough room. Here is one example.....
http://www.aussiespeed.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=13&Itemid=39
http://www.aussiespeed.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=13&Itemid=39
66TigerMK1A
Gold forum user
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- 1,135
I had to find some spacers when I switched from my 'Ford Racing' valve covers to the LAT 'Tiger' ones... I did find some 1/2" high ones but they were 'crazy' money ! A buddy of mine was about to have the same problem with his car so we bought a pair of 'Ansens' that were 1 3/8" high... I split them roughly in half ( bandsaw ) and then had each half milled down to about 1/2" high .
Of course there also needed to be a slight 'ball peen hammer' adjustment on each side of the tunnel, too.
Jim
B382000446
Of course there also needed to be a slight 'ball peen hammer' adjustment on each side of the tunnel, too.
Jim
B382000446
I am also using these -
Gasket Material - Cork/Rubber with steel core
Thickness (in) - 0.313 in.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-1645/?rtype=10
TIP - Adhere them to the head, not the VC. This makes removing the VCs much easier with engine in car.
Gasket Material - Cork/Rubber with steel core
Thickness (in) - 0.313 in.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-1645/?rtype=10
TIP - Adhere them to the head, not the VC. This makes removing the VCs much easier with engine in car.
66TigerMK1A
Gold forum user
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- 1,135
Hey Duke... Those are NICE !!
Would you believe that Aussiespeed wanted $269 for their 1/2" alum. ones...?? !!
Motor going in this weekend??
Would you believe that Aussiespeed wanted $269 for their 1/2" alum. ones...?? !!
Motor going in this weekend??
Out of town...will be another week or so. No big rush....want to do it right the second time
Riddle me Batman !
Since valve covers and clearances have been addressed- Does anyone have a quick and dirty method of dealing with the left rear valve cover bolt, with the engine in the vehicle? Tom Hall back in the 70s had a tech tip about using about 2.5 in long bolt with numerous nuts so you would finger thread it, then tighten it with an open end wrench on the bolt head. The hole in the firewall is a waste and none of my 1/4 in drive sockets/extensions seem to be the right size. Fortunately I have'nt had the need to remove the valve covers since I got rid of the solid lifter cam!
Since valve covers and clearances have been addressed- Does anyone have a quick and dirty method of dealing with the left rear valve cover bolt, with the engine in the vehicle? Tom Hall back in the 70s had a tech tip about using about 2.5 in long bolt with numerous nuts so you would finger thread it, then tighten it with an open end wrench on the bolt head. The hole in the firewall is a waste and none of my 1/4 in drive sockets/extensions seem to be the right size. Fortunately I have'nt had the need to remove the valve covers since I got rid of the solid lifter cam!