Fresh 'NOS' 289 Motor

DD (CA)

DD (CA)

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CAT Member
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Been traveling a bunch and physically away from the car, yearning to get back to it...

Old Motors: Quick refresher... Orig 260 overbored by Dad, 1969-1970 timeframe; so a 289 went in. Pulled the 289 at auto shop, taken to machine shop. (Other newbies, learn from me here)... My communication with machine shop was nil and strictly via the auto shop. There was a communication gap somewhere, but in the end, the 289 was bored to +0.040" over.

A number of you have provided great assistance and suggestions for this build plan, but most of those ideas went by the wayside while I hesitated on what to do next... I begrudgingly decided with plenty of expert input, that running this bore was not in my best interest, and although the motor is most likely just fine in many applications, it could also be a repeat of past mistakes and asking for trouble. So, I've a 4.040 short block available if any interest; but may be best for a Mustang or Falcon.

So, I needed a New Motor:
Lots of devilish ideas and concepts, but I'm still stubbornly trying to build a 'period correct'-ish motor, at least aesthetically. So newer, bigger cc motors were ruled out. Wished that I could just buy a brand new 5 bolt 289... obviously not possible... and yet...

Looks like I might have lucked into one. :D

Color. RED, yes, RED motor. I've heard tale of these, and perhaps have solved a mystery... This motor was assembled as a reconditioned motor by Fred Jones in 1968, as indicated by the tag. The short block was then crated along with mixed date code heads (rail-rocker type late 66-67). The color is likely to be a red oxide primer (sound familiar?) and may have been more common for these service engines(?) So: new Ford motors came in various blue hues, black, green and maybe red. NOTE: Won't use the late heads on Ti, but may come in handy for the '68 HCS (someday...)

Codes. The tag shows all standard dimensions; STD bore, STD bearings. You'll note the block casting date to be C40E-6015F, 5H26. Only three days removed from the current block; C40E-6015F, 5H23. Kinda cool...

History. Of interest is that Fred Jones was the largest provider of reconditioned motor assemblies to Ford. In 1968 FJ actually bought the OK City Ford engine plant, which became their HQ. So, the recon'd motor is an actual Ford 'factory direct' crate short block. The motor was found, in old crate, covered in cosmoline type grease, at a garage workshop sale last year, under a bench where it may have been sitting since 68... (maybe not). Sadly, FJ seems to have crumbled their operations and no longer do any assemblies, but do remain a distributor for Ford.

DoubleCheck. It was put back together by the seller, after they checked condition with their local machine shop, all* OEM parts, and cylinders (straight) honed. "Still has the chalk marks from the factory." Upon receipt, I somewhat reluctantly had it taken back apart, not knowing the true actual condition and it is 2X machine shop confirmed as a 'brand new block.' Neat!

Boring Plan. Some LAT options, but mostly stock for the (possibly) ZERO mile motor is the latest plan. Some things I may swap are cam (for current LAT type) and go to forged pistons (not sure necessary). Then the LAT stuff (intake, headers, oil pan). Not even sure that I'll paint it. As much as I'd like a shiny new complete motor, I also dig the idea of the patina of this block and a neat story to go along with it.

Frankly, the red block would probably look better in a white on red car though...

hee-hee
 
Sounds like you are having a lot of fun with this restoration--any grey hairs yet? haha
 
If you DO decide to upgrade the pistons you should also upgrade the connecting rods since you will need to have the assembly balanced either way. The stock connecting rods are a well known weak point on early Ford SB engines.
 
NOS motor refreshened

Well, I have to share the update... motor complete by end of week.

Shame that I have basically every other thing left to do; but its motivating to have the major powerplant needs at the ready.

Dad would have been very pleased to see the LAT stuff (finally) being put to good use. :)

Issues:
- RGD pushed in WP pulley hub n spindle, big thanks Bill. And it looks about perfectly aligned with crank pulley. Interestingly, the WP I pulled off did not have the WP pulley pushed back, so the belt must have been oddball for decades.
- New rockers are hitting baffles in the short Tiger valve covers. This was expected. Recourse shall be metal sandwich thicker Felpro gasket.
- The blue is lighter than it appears on here, but on the darker end of the Ford Blue spectrum; Duplicolor.
- Lots of extra costs, but the motor is snazzy. I'm confident it'll run like it looks. But...it had better...

Quick List:
0 mile virgin block (cross hatch honed)
Stock crank (polished, balanced, etc)
Flywheel surfaced
CompCams 256XE + Nitride coating (hardened lobes)
CompCams Magmun Pro roller tip rockers and hydro lifters
Stock date matching (lol) heads
- new springs, pins, seats, rockers, keepers
ARP Bolts
LAT low rise intake, oil pan, valve covers
Edelbrock 8842 pump, stock timing cover, new harm balancer


New Motor: check
New Wide Ratio Gear Toploader: Check
Put together rest of car: Pending...

Anyway... who's gonna help me marry it to the chassis when I get there? How beers and pizza would it take?
 
Pressed in or screw in rocker studs? If pressed, remove heads and have threaded studs installed. Otherwise you may be pulling the heads when it is in the car due to studs pulling out......not fun.

Stock springs?
 
I am vindicated, purchased a 5 bolt original bore short motor that was orange. everyone said it had been interfered with. The machine shop confirmed it had not been bored or changed from ford. After dipping the metal only had a very pale blue color left on the block. It will be painted ford blue at assembly,:cool:
 
Very nice! Can't wait till I have a fresh one on the stand. I think it's a good move to have the motor ready whenever you have a place to put it finally done. I'm probably going to do mine first this next fall.
 
P. Scofield said:
I'm probably going to do mine first this next fall.
Click to expand...

Get the May Classic Motorsports magazine. Read the article Restoration Mistakes.

#3 - Rebuilding the engine too soon.

Our rule is simple: Don't rebuild the engine till it's time to put it back in. We've seen too many engines rebuilt early in the restoration only to sit and degrade in a dusty corner of the shop. Not only that, but and engine rebuild sucks a lot of money out of the budget. If that money gets spent early, it sometimes means cost-cutting in important areas, like paint and body. You can always paint a used engine, put it back in, and pull it for a rebuild later. Try redoing the budget bodywork because you spent too much too early on your engine.

very true words....BTDT.
 
Screwed?

... in rocker studs... yup. ;-)

Engine first v. everything else first? Duke, I get the point, and am afraid to read the article at this point, but... If bored enough to read my earlier posts (wish that on only a few of you), you may note that your concern is right on the target. We've a perfectly good, hi-po (not factory), 6 bolt 289 refreshened sitting on stand. Completed circa... early 90's... :mad: Was never a candidate for the Tiger, it is slated for going back into the High Country coupe (1968)... someday... But, when that time comes...it'll be a shame to pull it back apart again.

The Tiger motor that came out was a non-runner and needed to come out. then issues at refresh led to hunt for another short block. I could have just kept the block around to do other work...but my guru and my heart told me to get it done asap and use it to keep rolling on other stuff. The budget has become secondary for the moment. Need to keep going...

The Tiger project has been on/off over the last quarter to half year, but the dream target date (this August) is such that I do not intend to have the motor sit around long. The transmission has been sitting out for months post-ratio change though... wondering if I should pre-lube...

Pic of pulley alignment for fun. Bill used a press to move in the pulley hub bout 1/4" or so in; mostly eyeballed it. Just about perfect with hand assembly! The pulleys will be cleaned up, yes.

Steven, reason for my post was reading others like yourself with 'oddball' paints. The dip on this one did not reveal any other color, only fyi. Had it been more orange I might have left it, because I'm a fan of the Gulf livery. The new blue block is nice, but will clash with the lighter Med blue. It'll get darker over time, at least dirtier, is what I'm taking solace in.

Michael, my guess is... getting you over NorCal way might require a divorce or at least temporary estrangement from your own fleet, and I'd consider those odds low. But you'd be very welcome to come over and help fondle my package... (oh wait...that may not have come out right). lol...

Keep on me guys, this forum is a member of my build crew, and I need the pressure.

Now that the SJ Sharks threw their own rod, at least I'll have more time in the evenings for garage activity. argh
 
DD (CA) said:
Dad would have been very pleased to see the LAT stuff (finally) being put to good use. :)
Click to expand...

Maybe it would be nice to have a pic of the block and all LAT options without all the background clutter just for a reference? Just saying it would look real pretty just sitting there by itself.
 
More pics?

But of course, Pretty sure y'all know I'll inundate with additional pictures...

Will take more, higher res, cleaner background, 360 views, at pick-up. It's still not 'complete' nor ready for pick-up. ARP dress up stuff bolting on WP and pulleys, then about done.

Oh yeah, small thing...

The rockers are hitting the VC baffles, of course. Thicker Felpro and perhaps some BFH dents in baffle to be attempted. Also asked for allen bolts at firewall side of VCs.

And one of the background motors is more of higher budget all-out type Tiger transplant. Looks mean and fun. ;)

It's pretty for sure, but will look prettier once in car.
 
motor

duke,
waiting till later to build the engine gives Tim more time to find someone to sponser the rebuild.
 
DD (CA) said:
Oh yeah, small thing...

The rockers are hitting the VC baffles, of course. Thicker Felpro and perhaps some BFH dents in baffle to be attempted. Also asked for allen bolts at firewall side of VCs.

.
Click to expand...


It's not a small thing !!! My 289 eat the baffles which lead to pulling the motor apart when the main bearings became toast from all the metal in the oil. Tom Hall makes a 1/4" aluminum spacer that takes care of any interference problems.....

Moondoggie
 
Facetious...

I realize the baffle hit is a major concern.

What I don't know, is what mitigation level is required? At S/S today, the guys were putting baffles on a set and I got to see the rivets. Screw in / pounded in. Doubt they'd come out easily. And, I think their baffle is Z shaped to give more clearance than the ones I have, which seem straight across. With rockers hitting on cold motor too, I would think worse on hot, looser motor? Bill M assured Mike (@Clarks) that the thick, metal cored Felpros should be sufficient for clearance; Mike planned to bend the baffles too. I'm a bit more than concerned. Want to maintain firewall clearance, so spacer kinda stinks.

Oh, and kinda bummed as one of the reasons I maintained flat hydraulic tappet is to give more clearance than full roller. The VCs are indeed low... " I shoulda known better" and did...because I could tell it was lower than the other VCs on there previously and took measurements and photos.

How did you mitigate interference?

Other than going crate modded 302 unless I'm mistaken about ID's... :D

Derek
 
DD (CA);18879 How did you mitigate interference? Other than going crate modded 302 unless I'm mistaken about ID's... :D Derek[/QUOTE said:
Actually the baffles were a blessing because I had no idea what was in the 289
and the previous Owner was a lying son of a bitch. The block was .040 over and toast so I threw the how shebang in the dumpster and started over with a
std bore 68 302 bock. I wound up using Jessem shaft roller rockers on the AFR heads with a stage 4 Crower roller hydraulic retro fit cam ground to a 289 firing order. I will use the spacers for insurance....I'm way beyond $15k in the new motor so we are well beyond crate stuff by a frigging mile..

Moondoggie
Click to expand...
 
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